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Tips for Installing Wainscot Panels on Stairs
Tips for Installing Wainscot Panels on Stairs
Want to print a copy? Find a PDF here
Getting that professionally finished look is made easier when you follow these tips.
- All the Elite Pre-cut panels (a) going up a set of stairs should be similar in size; this
gives your installation symmetry. The width of the panels comes down to personal
choice in regards to appearance. Each kit includes 4 panels that measure 44”h x 20”w.
Use an angle finder (shown below) to measure the angle of the stairs. To do this,
place one arm of the angle finder against the vertical rise of the stinger (c) and the
other arm onto the diagonal side (the side going up) of the stringer. Use this angle to
cut the tops and bottoms of your stiles (d) and the tops and bottoms of your panels
(a). If you have a Raised Panel Kit, you will have to shape the panels after cutting to
size; using the (99-519) Freud Router Bit.
Note: In the case of Wall Panel Wainscoting, panels are not necessary; your existing
wall will be used as a panel. Only the ends of the stiles will have to be cut and
reshaped using the Freud 99-470 Router Bit.
- The Lower Rail is 8” high, however, you should not install a full height Lower
Rail diagonally up the stairs. The reason for this is that it would be too big and it will
protrude into the panel too much making the panels on the stairs look too small. The
Lower Rail needs to be cut down; in this example (f) it is cut to 4” in height (the
height is really up to you, 5”
works as well). The Lower Rail
should butt up flush with the
vertical face of the Stringer.
Measure back 4” horizontally
from the stringer on the Lower
Rail and make a 45° cut. The
cut will end approximately halfway down on the Lower Rail.
The “Variable Angle” will all
depend on the angle of your
stairs (all stairs are different).
In this example, our Variable
Angle was 120° because the
diagonal angle of the stair is
120°.
- Note the position of the Transition Stile (e) and both the top and bottom transitions in
the different pictures included in this instructional. The Bottom Transition is placed
next to the stile (e) whereas the Top Transition is placed above the stile (e). This is
done in order to accommodate the stringer without interfering with, or protruding into
the panel. Using this technique also prevents odd “L” shaped panels which are difficult
to cut and especially difficult to shape using a router.
- The next part to consider is the small
transition (b) on the Top Rail between
the horizontal installation and the
diagonal stair installation. Follow the
same guidelines set for the Lower
Transition described in Step 2. The
difference here is that the Top Rail is
installed at full height and should not
be cut down in height. Remember, that
the variable angle will remain the same
for both the top and the bottom of the
installation.
- Use Spackling (plaster compound) on any seams, corners, and nail head holes you
may have on the wainscoting itself. Allow the spackling to dry out completely, and
then sand it down using fine-grit sandpaper. Dap (paint-able latex caulking) should be
used anywhere that the back of the wainscoting touches the wall. The Dap will fill the
seams between the wainscoting and the wall. It will allow the wainscoting to move as
the wall and the home expands and contracts depending on weather and the time of
year.
- After sanding and caulking, it’s time to apply a finish
coat of paint. Any type of paint can be used, however, we recommend using Semi-Gloss. Wainscoting is
applied to the bottom of the wall and tends to get
scuffed and dirtier than the rest of the wall; therefore
you need paint that is easy to clean.
Want to print a copy? Find a PDF here