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Installing Beadboard on Stairs
Installing Beadboard on Stairs
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Installing Elite Bayside Beadboard up a set of stairs and getting that professionally finished look is made easier when you follow these tips.
- Use an angle finder (shown below right) to measure the angle of the stairs, to do
this, place one arm of the angle finder against the vertical rise of the stinger (c)
and the other arm onto the diagonal side (the side going up) of the stringer. Use
this angle (Variable Angle) to cut the tops and bottoms of your Diagonal
Beadboard planks (a).
- The Lower Rail is 8” high
however it is not
recommended that you
install a full-height Lower
Rail diagonally up the
stairs. The reason for this
is that it would be too big
and it will protrude too
much into the Beadboard
planks, making the
Beadboard on the stairs
look too short or low. The
Lower Rail needs to be
ripped down; in this
example (f) it is cut to 4”
in height (the height is
really up to you). The
Lower Rail should butt up
flush with the vertical face
of the Stringer. Measure back 4” (this measurement will depend on the height of
your Bottom rail) horizontally from the stringer on the Lower Rail and make a 45°
cut, the cut will end approximately halfway down on the Lower Rail. The
“Variable Angle” will all depend on the angle of your stairs (all stairs are
different). In this example, our Variable Angle was 120° because the diagonal
angle (measured with the Angle Finder) of the stair is 120°.
- Note the position of the Transition Plank (e) and both the top and bottom
transitions in the different pictures included in this instructional. The Bottom
Transition (b) is placed next to the Transition Plank (e) whereas the Top
Transition (b) is placed above the Transition Plank (e). This is done in order to
accommodate the stringer without interfering with, or protruding into the
Beadboard.
- The next part to consider is the small
transition (b) on the Top Rail between
the horizontal installation and the
diagonal stair Installation. Follow the
same guidelines set for the Lower
Transition described in Step 2. The
difference here is that the Top Rail is
installed at full height and should not be
cut down in height. Remember that the
variable angle will remain the same for
both the top and the bottom of the
installation.
- Use Spackling (plaster compound) on
any seams, corners, and nail head holes
you may have, let the spackling fully
dry and sand it down using fine-grit
sandpaper. Dap (paint-able latex
caulking) should be used to hide any seams that may appear between the
Beadboard and the wall. The Dap will fill the seams between the Beadboard and
the wall and it will allow the Beadboard to move with the wall as the home
expands and contracts, depending on weather and the time of year.
- After sanding and caulking it’s time to apply a finish coat of paint, any type of paint can be used however we recommend using Semi-Gloss. Beadboard is applied to the bottom of the wall and tends to get scuffed and dirtier than the rest of the wall; therefore you need a paint that is easy to clean.
Want to print a copy? Find a PDF here